Lazarette hatch replacement, Part 1

Lots of my fellow C-Dory owners have expressed dissatisfaction with the factory-installed hatches covering the cockpit lazarettes. The trouble is that the stock hatches are not designed for horizontal installation. They collect water in the gap between the hatch and its frame; when you open them, the water spills INTO the locker!

So the clever C-Brats have identified a replacement that fits into the existing hole and works much better. I got mine this week, and decided to tackle the replacement project now, while the boat is in my driveway.

Step 1: Remove screws.

Step 2: Gently separate hatch frame with plastic putty knife/scraper/spatula.

Step 3: Gently pry the entire hatch/frame assembly up off the deck.

Step 4: Assess the damage. Look at the screws you removed for signs of rust, and examine the (sealed) balsa-core for signs of rot.

Decide how you want to address any issues you uncover. In my case, a bit more exploration reveals that the balsa core behind the stained sealant in the image below is still intact, though moist. At this point, it should be easy to contain this problem by allowing it to dry out thoroughly, since I won’t be reusing this hole for the new hatch anyway.

Step 5: Remove as much of the old adhesive/sealant as you can using an appropriate tool. I found a metal paint scraper worked extremely well. The goal is to remove as much of it as you can without gouging the gelcoat.

Once you get the feel for it, you might be able to remove large sections and leave only a thin layer or caulking on the fiberglass.

Start working near the opening, where mistakes will be covered with new adhesive sealant. As you gain confidence, come back and work nearer the finish edge where mistakes might be visible later.

Step 6: Use solvent to remove the last traces of old caulking. I used DeBond’s Marine Formula, with a blue 3M Scotch-Brite non-scratch scour pad. Warning: DeBond will cause the blue dye in the Scotch-Brite pad to be released. No big deal, and it’s actually somewhat helpful because the blue dye sticks to the spots where caulking still remains, but wipes off clean gelcoat.

Step 7: Test-fit the new hatch, decide what sort of fasteners to use. I’m going to through-bolt mine; I dislike coarse-threaded screws driven into cored fiberglass. I want any water that gets in through the top to have a way out through the bottom.

Once you’ve decided on fasteners, go shopping.

Coming up in Part 2: Selecting an appropriate adhesive/sealant, using denatured alcohol to prep the surface, and bedding the new hatches properly.