This must-read roundup of electrical instruments by Dan Corcoran appears over at Panbo:

In the fall there were a lot of magazine articles on tools everyone should have on their boat including favorite tools, tools distance cruises should have, unusual tools, multi purpose tools, and so forth. In this article I bring some focus to tools of the battery operated kind I use on my boat.

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In case you weren’t already 100% convinced by my own article that converting to Smartplug is a Do-It-Yourself project you can accomplish, check out the new videos from the SmartPlug folks. I’ve embedded just the first one…the overview. The rest are available on the SmartPlug site.

[As an aside, please notice how the video’s title page says “Introduction to the SmartPlug with TV’s Mike Miller.” Hold on! Could it be that somebody at SmartPlug is a fan of TV’s Frank?]

Oh, and of course there’s a press release to go with the new videos…

Seeing is believing and boaters can view just how simple it really is to switch to a new, safer shorepower system. SmartPlug Systems created two short installation videos, giving owners a better understanding of how to retrofit their current system with the revolutionary SmartPlug system.

The videos feature the 30 amp connector and inlet and can be found on www.smartplug.com on the Videos page, as well as on the site’s individual installation pages. One movie, www.smartplug.com/install_30a_plug.html, demonstrates how to retrofit the connector, while the other, www.smartplug.com/install_30a_inlet.html, shows how to adapt the inlet. Step-by-step written instructions with accompanying photos are also available on the installation section of the website.

Those who want to learn more about the SmartPlug system can watch www.smartplug.com/videos.html. A unique shorepower system, the SmartPlug is designed to replace the outdated standard in use today. It helps prevent loose connections and corrosion, the leading causes of marine fires and electrocution.

Check out the Greenlee Fish Stix and the Cen-Tech Wire Running Kit featured over at Capt. Mike’s Bianka Blog:

Running new wires behind walls or bulkheads is called fishing. Which is not the same as dropping a line over the side in the hopes of catching dinner. But, it can use a similar type of a fiberglass pole. It has been a learning experience for me as I used the technique on various projects. Here’s what I found.

Read more…definitely worthwhile for do-it-yourselfers. Thanks to Boat Bits for the link.

[It’s another MadMariner feature from a couple weeks back. —Tim]

I first heard about the SmartPlug back in June, and I’ll admit I was somewhat skeptical. Why would anyone bother "reinventing the wheel" when it comes to shorepower cable connector standards? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, right?

I have changed my mind. In fact, I have converted my boat to SmartPlug. I don’t anticipate I’ll have any trouble at any of the marinas or destinations I visit, despite the fact that my boat’s shorepower inlet is, for the moment, almost unique. How can I be so confident? Well, let me explain.

The manufacturer claims that "SmartPlug is a revolutionary shore power system designed to replace the outdated and problematic twist lock standard in use today. It’s intuitive to use and provides greater protection against loose connections and corrosion—the leading causes of shore power failure and fires."

After taking a close look at my existing shorepower cable and connections, and comparing them to what I saw when I visited the SmartPlug headquarters in Seattle, I was a convert. Especially when I saw several samples of charred melted twist-lock connectors…yikes!

I’m not on the SmartPlug payroll or anything, either; I was genuinely impressed. You don’t have to take my word for it, though: handle a SmartPlug at your local marine store, or track one down at your regional boat show, and you’ll see what I mean. This is one serious piece of engineering.

WHY BOTHER?

As I wrote when I first heard about this product, "I still think the SmartPlug folks have got one hell of an uphill battle ahead of them, trying to break into a market already saturated with a pre-installed standard."

Ken Smith, President of SmartPlug, acknowledges the challenge. However, it turns out that my understanding of SmartPlug’s current product offering was incomplete. During my visit, I learned that a boater could upgrade to SmartPlug on the boat side of the power cord, and keep the conventional twist-lock plug on the dockside end. As the website says, "Protect your boat NOW…even if your marina hasn’t yet upgraded!"

I didn’t get it before, and my suspicion is that a lot of potential customers also do not get this. They probably don’t appreciate that they can enjoy most of the benefits of the SmartPlug system even if the marina has not upgraded. Excessive heat aboard the boat could start a fire that might destroy the boat, while excessive heat at the dock’s shorepower pedestal, although plenty bad, isn’t nearly as likely to start a boat-destroying fire.

Shortly after my visit, I decided to upgrade the power connection aboard Two Lucky Fish, my C-Dory 22. I anticipate that I’ll enjoy the benefits SmartPlug claims, plus a couple of secondary benefits the marketing material doesn’t really emphasize: Ease of use for crewmembers, and ease of use for me in the dark.

With the old plug, I never felt comfortable asking other crewmembers to hook up the shorepower when we arrived at a destination, even our home slip. Those twist-lock connectors are a little tricky if you’re not familiar with them. I’ve had children, and even adults, give up and tell me they couldn’t figure it out. In the dark, it’s not uncommon to hear me cursing while I try to figure out which way to orient the twist-lock plug connecter.

In comparison, the SmartPlug is dead simple; it’s completely obvious how to plug it in, even in the dark. Also, it’s fairly intuitive to disconnect, even without somebody explaining that the socket lid locks into place on the plug, providing security in addition to the latches on either side of the plug body.

UPGRADING

Upgrading is easy, even if you’re not a boat electrician. There are no special tools required, other than a pair of wire strippers for 30-amp wire. Actually, I don’t possess such a wire stripper; I used a boxcutter, and that was fine.

I won’t describe every detail of the process; be sure to read the instructions. Obviously, disconnect your shorepower cord and turn everything off before you start! Once that’s done, the first step is to disconnect and remove your old twist-lock socket. Don’t panic, because if you have second thoughts, you can always reinstall it.

Test-fit the SmartPlug socket in the existing hole. Mine fit perfectly, but since my old inlet used three screws and the SmartPlug uses four, I had to drill new holes. No problem.

Secure the boat’s black, white, and green shorepower wires into the back of the SmartPlug inlet and tighten those color-coded screws. Then mount the socket into the existing hole, using the provided gasket to seal it up. You’ll have to purchase your own stainless #8-32 fasteners (bolts, nuts, and washers), and you can add polysulfide or silicone sealant if you feel it’s necessary, but I did not.

After you’ve got the socket installed on your boat, it’s time for the truly frightening, irreversible part of this operation. I have to admit that it was nerve-wracking taking a hacksaw to a perfectly good Marinco shorepower cable that retails for about $150.

Once you’ve cut the end off your current cable, you need to strip back 1 ½-inch of the exterior wire insulation (the thick yellow part) from the cable. Now it gets a little tricky. I recommend cleaning the first two feet of the outside of your old cable thoroughly before you start the next step; mine was kind of yucky. You need to force your cable into the SmartPlug plug housing and the rubber cord gasket.

This gasket fits quite tightly around the cord, so it will be necessary to use the clever plastic cone the SmartPlug folks have included in the kit. Add some dish soap as a lubricant, and "thread the needle." It will take some force, and some patience, but it does work. Once you’ve got it all the way through, push a little more through until about three inches of cable emerges out of the plug housing.

Now you need to strip the insulation from the three individual wires (which should be black, white, and green). The instructions say to strip ½-inch of insulation, but I was not happy with that. I ended up stripping about 5/8s of an inch back from the end, and it seemed fit together better.

See, you want the clear plastic "teeth" of the SmartPlug insert to engage with the thick yellow outer insulation of your shorepower cable. When I stripped a bit more insulation off the inner wires, more of the thick outer insulation was available for the plastic teeth to bite into. This is important because those teeth help hold the cable and the SmartPlug together.

At this point, you just work the housing down so it engages with the plug insert, and tighten the screws that hold it all together. Add the stick-on neoprene ring seal around the plug face, and you’re done. Just plug it in and turn on your shorepower breakers.

As with most DIY projects, you’ll encounter idiosyncrasies unique to your own situation. In my case, drilling four new holes in the boat and stripping a bit more insulation were the only aspects that didn’t go precisely "by the book," but you want to make sure you can roll back the conversion if you encounter some unforeseen obstacle. So wait until you’re certain the inlet can be installed before you chop the end of your current shorepower cable.

Good luck!

Time for another Navagear feature at MadMariner. This time, I explain why I’ve upgraded my shorepower cable to the new SmartPlug standard.

After this week’s $2-million, 3-vessel boat fire just across Lake Union from my boat, I’m feeling especially virtuous about my decision!

Navagear has been fascinated with electric propulsion, and with the Torqeedo motors in particular, for several years now.

So count us “very interested” in this event. IN FACT, let me go so far as to suggest that we would probably not turn down an invitation to crew or cover this event, were it offered.

Anyway, here’s the press release with the background and details:

Torqeedo is always looking to push the envelope in developing the most efficient and powerful electric outboard motors in the marine industry. That’s why they created the Torqeedo Catalina Solar/Electric Boat Challenge, proving that electric outboards are destination motors. It also honors Bob Nordskog, a man who took the challenge 30 years ago to travel the intimidating Pacific Ocean over 26.5 nautical miles from Long Beach Harbor to Catalina Island in the first electric boat ever built.

The first successful Torqeedo Catalina Challenge took place on October 24 in a 16′7" Hobie® Getaway Catamaran named the Kona Concept®, modified to accommodate batteries and a solar panel and powered by the Cruise 4.0R Torqeedo Electric Outboard Motor. Captain of Kona Concept and grandson of Bob Nordskog, Erik Robert Nordskog, and navigator Jim Czarnowski, director of engineering for Hobie Cat, were very proud to recreate the crossing. They completed it in just 6 hours and 41 minutes and with 35% battery power remaining.

So, why establish the Torqeedo Challenge? The purpose is to go beyond using electric propulsion only on green lakes, in marinas and on cocktail cruisers. It’s to demonstrate that electric propulsion can be developed into a destination motor in the mainstream boating industry. The challenge is intended to provide a means of recognition for and is open to individuals and manufacturers who demonstrate, in offshore conditions, improvements in both range and speed of recreational electric craft. Torqeedo also wants to encourage both atmospheric and noise pollution reduction.

There are four classes in which to compete: mono-hull, above and below 18′, as well as multi-hull, above and below 18′. Participants need to submit a proposal and document the voyage for consideration. Winners will be rewarded with a bronze medallion replica of the original Catalina Challenge Trophy. This year it was presented to Erik Nordskog and Jim Czarnowski by Larry Smith, founder and owner of Team Scarab, and Steve Trkla, US president of Torqeedo.

Erik’s grandfather, the late Bob Nordskog, first attempted this feat in 1980. His close friend, Larry Smith, bought the motor, controller and batteries from Bob to build a 14′ bay launch. As president of the American Power Boat Association Race Group, as well as founder and owner of Powerboat magazine, Bob Nordskog held many offshore endurance racing records that are still unchallenged to this day. He was an innovator and believed in solar technology and attempted the first ever solar electric boat run to Catalina Island.

(more…)

Hey, this thing beats the heck out of my 15-year-old ACR Firefly! Let’s read the press release…

FORT LAUDERDALE, FL – OCTOBER 2, 2009 – Long considered the survivor locator light of choice for cruise lines and RO-RO fleets worldwide, the ACR
HemiLight series has announced a smaller, lighter version with greater
visibility thanks to an all-directional LED.

The HemiLight 2 Survivor Light is a new marine-tough design that meets all USCG and SOLAS requirements and DOT and IATA rules for safe transport.  The new light’s rounded edges help maintain the integrity of inflatable life jackets and attachment loops accommodate up to 2 in (5 cm) wide webbing. The unit is water activated and has a manual switch to deactivate.

The MSRP for the HemiLight 2 is $24.00.  Bulk or carded versions are available for retail display.

• Model Number: HL8-10
• Size: 2.75’ L x 1.47’ W x 1.37’ H (6.9 X 3.7 x 3.4 cm)
• Weight: 1.9 oz (55 g)
• Battery: Non-hazardous lithium. 5-year life (non replaceable). Meets DOT and IATA rules for safe transport
• Material: Polycarbonate
• Activation: Automatic when in contact with water (fresh or salt), deactivate via a manual switch
• Waterproof: Water tight to 30 ft (9.14 m). Meets IMO standards
• Beam angle: All directions in the upper hemisphere
• Operational Life: Exceeds 8 hr requirement (Typical operational life of 16 hrs)
• Operating Temperature: -4 F to +131 F (-20 C to +55 C) (Class 2)
• Stowage Type: -22 F to + 131 F (-30 C to +65 C)
• Limited Warranty: 5 years

[Navagear has made no secret of the fact that we’re impressed with the Torqeedo line; we’ve written about several Torqeedo products. So despite the fact that I know very, very little about fishing, I thought I would share this press release with our readers. —Tim]

When it comes to kayak fishing, every advantage counts. That’s why professionals such as Chad Hoover, pair their kayak with an outboard designed specifically for fishing. With a total weight of 15 lbs., including the battery, Torqeedo’s Ultralight 402 can be easily mounted onto most rigid kayaks. It’s IP67-rated and can operate when temporarily submersed.

As a pro staff member and owner of www.kayakbassfishing.com, Hoover is an extensively experienced and enthusiastic angler. He also doesn’t recommend a product to anyone without trying it out firsthand.

"I’ve taken this motor over cypress knees, shale rock and dense vegetation, including lily pads," said Hoover. "I beat this motor up and it just keeps going. It even performs well in shallow water."

"I’d recommend this motor to other anglers," continued Hoover. "It frees my hands up to fish. The Ultralight is also quiet, fast, lightweight, efficient, smooth and easily adjusted. The speed and presentation can be dialed in to match your technique and not the other way around."

With propulsive power equivalent to a 1 hp gas outboard, it can reach a max speed between 5.0-6.0 mph for about half an hour, depending on the type of kayak. At slow speed, it provides a range of 12-15 miles. An integrated board computer combines information from the motor, batteries and a built-in GPS, enabling kayakers to monitor battery charge, speed and remaining range at current speed.

"The Torqeedo kayak outboard is a great addition to any beginning, intermediate or advanced paddling angler’s arsenal," continued Hoover. "It helps increase your range and the amount of water you can cover, which can ultimately increase your ability to catch fish."

The Ultralight’s impressive efficiency is due to its drivetrain, which converts 50% of stored battery power into propulsive power, measured after all losses, including propeller losses. In comparison, the equivalent value for trolling motors amounts to some 20% while internal combustion outboards have even smaller overall efficiencies.

Enabling trolling, providing additional range and giving support against local currents, this electric outboard is also helpful when kayaking with friends and family, who may prefer the convenience of an outboard. "It ushers in people who may steer away from paddling to fish and requires no permanent installation to your kayak," said Hoover.

Torqeedo’s new Ultralight 402 has a suggested retail price of $1,799.

Combining lithium batteries with leading-edge motor technology and propeller design, Torqeedo’s high-tech outboards have won numerous awards. Environmentally-sound, they offer unrivalled strength and efficiency for superior range.

Chad Hoover’s book, Kayak Bass Fishing, is now available for pre-sale at www.helipress.com and will be officially released November 1.

You know, I actually want this! I’m not just being silly, either. My slip on Lake Union is tucked between a houseboat and a boat house, and it’s DARK. At night, I barely have enough light to see where I’m going. What I need is a motion-sensor-controlled underwater lighting system that would turn on when a boat approaches, helping me see what I’m doing.

Anyway, here’s the press release:

Docking at night combined with improper lighting can be dangerous. Adding safety and colored beauty to waterfront property, Aqualuma underwater lighting offers its high-output LED Dock/Marina Light, improving visibility of the surrounding waters.

The light’s unique, curved-face design illuminates the waters around docks, pilings, seawalls and jetties. Late-night fishing is also more enjoyable since underwater lighting attracts a wide variety of fish for the avid angler.

Incredibly durable, its six LEDs are protected in a high-tech polymer housing. The Dock/Marina Light draws less than 1.3 amps at 12V DC and emits virtually no heat. With no bonding required or metal under the water, corrosion is eliminated. It comes with 16.2′ of tinned cable.

A fiberglass mounting post, injection-molded, reinforced bracket and stainless steel mounting pins are included. Easy cleaning is enabled by the pivot bracket.

The light is available in Ultra Blue, Ultra Green and Brilliant White. With a recent price reduction and a two-year warranty, Aqualuma’s Marina/Dock Light costs $777.18. Piggyback units are available for $642.18.

I still think the SmartPlug folks have got one hell of an uphill battle ahead of them, trying to break into a market already saturated with a pre-installed standard. But good luck to them!

You know, they’re right here in Seattle. Maybe I’ll drop by and see what I can learn.

Anyhoo, on with the press release!…

Continuing to revolutionize shorepower systems, SmartPlug Systems is proud to announce its 30 Amp Retrofit Boatside Plug and Inlet are American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) compliant. Both products have been independently tested by IMANNA Laboratory to meet ABYC E-11 standards.

“Becoming ABYC compliant paves the road to meeting Canadian regulations and beginning to distribute SmartPlug products in Canada,” said Ken Smith, CEO and founder of SmartPlug Systems. “We forecast sales of the SmartPlug will double as soon as sales in Canada are permitted.” Additionally, being ABYC compliant will assist in the introduction and meeting of regulatory requirements for shorepower in Europe and Australia, as well as facilitate the company in becoming an OEM for powerboats and sailboats.

Several rigorous tests were performed in order for the SmartPlug products to meet the standards. One test assured that the SmartPlug Retrofit Boatside Plug and Inlet are weatherproof, whether in use or not. With the plug and inlet engaged and in the locked position, the SmartPlug underwent a constant stream of water from a hose directed at all points of potential entry into the internal mechanisms.

Additionally, a temperature test was performed to assure that the SmartPlug will work at its rated max amperage in high ambient temperatures. The blade of a boatside plug was tested and shown to be capable of carrying a current continuously, without a temperature rise of more than 54˚ F. This is equal to the ampacity of the cord, but not greater than the maximum current for which the plug is rated.