Lots of my fellow C-Dory owners have expressed dissatisfaction with the factory-installed hatches covering the cockpit lazarettes. The trouble is that the stock hatches are not designed for horizontal installation. They collect water in the gap between the hatch and its frame; when you open them, the water spills INTO the locker!

So the clever C-Brats have identified a replacement that fits into the existing hole and works much better. I got mine this week, and decided to tackle the replacement project now, while the boat is in my driveway.

Step 1: Remove screws.

Step 2: Gently separate hatch frame with plastic putty knife/scraper/spatula.

Step 3: Gently pry the entire hatch/frame assembly up off the deck.

Step 4: Assess the damage. Look at the screws you removed for signs of rust, and examine the (sealed) balsa-core for signs of rot.

Decide how you want to address any issues you uncover. In my case, a bit more exploration reveals that the balsa core behind the stained sealant in the image below is still intact, though moist. At this point, it should be easy to contain this problem by allowing it to dry out thoroughly, since I won’t be reusing this hole for the new hatch anyway.

Step 5: Remove as much of the old adhesive/sealant as you can using an appropriate tool. I found a metal paint scraper worked extremely well. The goal is to remove as much of it as you can without gouging the gelcoat.

Once you get the feel for it, you might be able to remove large sections and leave only a thin layer or caulking on the fiberglass.

Start working near the opening, where mistakes will be covered with new adhesive sealant. As you gain confidence, come back and work nearer the finish edge where mistakes might be visible later.

Step 6: Use solvent to remove the last traces of old caulking. I used DeBond’s Marine Formula, with a blue 3M Scotch-Brite non-scratch scour pad. Warning: DeBond will cause the blue dye in the Scotch-Brite pad to be released. No big deal, and it’s actually somewhat helpful because the blue dye sticks to the spots where caulking still remains, but wipes off clean gelcoat.

Step 7: Test-fit the new hatch, decide what sort of fasteners to use. I’m going to through-bolt mine; I dislike coarse-threaded screws driven into cored fiberglass. I want any water that gets in through the top to have a way out through the bottom.

Once you’ve decided on fasteners, go shopping.

Coming up in Part 2: Selecting an appropriate adhesive/sealant, using denatured alcohol to prep the surface, and bedding the new hatches properly.

[It’s another MadMariner feature from a few weeks back. —Tim]

Regular readers know that I like to fiddle with new technology on my boat, including the unique challenges that always seem to emerge when it comes time to mount something permanently.

The word "permanent" isn’t accurate, of course, especially in the realm of marine electronics. So my strong preference, whenever possible, is to avoid drilling holes I might not want later. This is especially true when it comes to holes drilled into surfaces exposed to the elements.

Another priority for me: I want to fit all my beloved electronics into the relatively small space available aboard my 22-foot boat. It can be difficult to find a spot for a new item. I want to be able to access the item easily, except in the case where the item is a behind-the-scenes "black box."

Once the right spot is identified, of course, the real challenge presents itself: how to physically mount the component there? Which brings us to my other big priority: saving money. I appreciate quality, and I value ergonomics slightly higher than aesthetics, but they’re all important to me. While there are plenty of custom fabricators and off-the-shelf mounting solutions enabling us to mount virtually any electronics component in virtually any position, I almost always avoid them.

Because I’m cheap, yes, but also because I enjoy the challenge of coming up with a solution on my own. In today’s article, I’m going to discuss two recent mounting projects that required a bit of creative thinking and resourcefulness. One item will be in daily use while underway, while the other will hardly ever receive any attention at all. In both cases, though, the components need to be visible and accessible to the helmsman.

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Time for another Navagear feature at MadMariner. This time, I talk about how I tackled a couple of electronics mounting challenges.

Take a look at the Rhino Grip. I received a set of these today from Harry Patz of the TarpClipStore.com, which is distributing them.

Very handy, and they appear to be quite robust. I especially like the fact that they have both an eye and a simple hook. Sometimes you want an eye, for security. Sometimes you want a hook, for convenience.

They’re made of fiberglass-filled nylon, and you can do a lot BESIDES securing those ubiquitous blue tarps we seem to love so much.

But let’s talk about using them specifically with blue tarps for a moment. I took a series of photographs this evening, after I got home from today’s “live blogging” session at the Seattle Boat Show.

See what’s so clever? The bolt is removable, and sized just perfectly to fit into the grommets on our precious blue tarps. But as anyone knows, those grommets sometimes fail. The Rhino Grip clip allows you to distribute the load to both the grommet and the fabric itself:

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I love Cap’t Pauley’s sketchbook. This time, he’s tackling the intricate mysteries surrounding cleat installation. It’s all about keeping water OUT, you know…

And notice how there is no sealant on the inside. I don’t know how many installations I’ve encountered with sealant on the inside! If the water gets past the first line of defense, you WANT to SEE it. You want it to pass through the deck unobstructed. Otherwise, you’re just trapping water inside the deck.

[It's another MadMariner feature from a few weeks back.

I don’t claim to be any sort of workshop prodigy, but I love being able to work up solutions on my own, and each project gives me a little more confidence for the next one. Well, each successful project, anyway! —Tim]

When it Comes to Custom Fabrication, the Best Person for the Job May Be You

In the old days, sailing ships carried carpenters, sailmakers, metalsmiths and riggers. If something broke, they repaired it or made a new piece from raw materials.

Times have changed. Modern recreational boaters don’t need to know how to make everything, of course. Frankly, it would be impossible, given the broad range of technologies and specialized tools involved. Even propeller-headed uber geeks (guys like Ben Ellison and Steve Roberts) can’t make everything they carry.

Nevertheless, and no matter what your level of do-it-yourself expertise, I think it’s always worthwhile to ask yourself, “Could I make that?” Often times, the answer is an unequivocal “No!” But once in a while you encounter an opportunity to transform a frustrating “shopping” project into a fulfilling “fabrication” project.

Sometimes, custom fabrication is the only choice.

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Time for another Navagear feature at MadMariner! It discusses a few of the small custom fabrication projects I’ve recently dared to DIY, or should that be “DIM” (”do it myself”)?

I don’t claim to be any sort of workshop prodigy, but I love being able to work up solutions on my own, and each project gives me a little more confidence for the next one. Well, each successful project, anyway!

Remember Accon Marine flush-mount tie-downs? Come on, folks, it was just last week! This thing:

Anyway, I heard from Erica Ring at Accon, and here’s what she had to say:

To answer your questions:

Yes, it is more like one big hole and four smaller screw holes.  The easiest way to install would be to use a hole saw for the big hole and drop the tie down in to mark the other 4 holes.

The sealing cup is to prevent water from getting behind the tie down.  It just drops into the hole and is secured along with the tie down by the four screws.

I hope this clears things up.  If not, please let me know and I will try to clarify

Got it. Thanks, Erica!

[I get press releases for all kinds of doodads and fittings. Here's one that could be just the thing when you need a low-profile hardpoint installed flush with the surface of a bulkhead or deck. But I'm just a little bit confused about how it's installed. Read on... —Tim]

When riding the waves, it’s important to keep everyone aboard safe and all equipment in the boat. With Accon Marine’s 195 Large and 196 Small Tie Downs, all loose gear can be secured to the deck.

Great for poling platforms, scuba gear and fenders, these Tie Downs can be used anywhere equipment needs to stay in place. The Large version measures 3.5″ L x 3.5″ W x 1.25″ D and is also ideal for docks. Suited for use on personal watercraft, the Small model is 2″ L x 2″ W x 1″ D.

Constructed from stainless steel, the Tie Down’s assembly consists of the main body and sealing cup. Installation is simple and only requires owners to drill a single hole and fasten the Tie Down with four screws. The 195 model needs a 2-1/2″ hole, while the small 196 model requires a 1-1/2″ hole.

[Hold on a minute: A single hole? Don't they mean one big whole and four small ones? And I want to know more about the "sealing cup"; I'm going to bed this with my beloved polysulfide anyway, right? I better check with the manufacturer. —Tim]

Accon Marine’s 195 Large Tie Down has a retail price of $40.71, while the 196 Small Tie Down is priced at $17.92.

Inventor of the original Pop-Up cleat, Accon Marine specializes in flush mounted, stainless steel hardware, enhancing a boater’s experience. With fresh ideas and innovation as its industry trademarks, Accon Marine strives for high-quality in its products.

At the Seattle Boat Show, I met Gregg Casagrande of SeaSucker. He was demonstrating various boating accessories that mounted temporarily with a sort of fancy-looking suction cup; everything from cup holders to fishing rod holders to electronics mounts. I mentioned these products in my “final days” reminder. Today I’ll explain what impressed me.

We’ve all seen various suction-cup goodies over the years. If you’re like me, you regard suction cups as occasionally and temporarily useful, but not to be relied upon. Certainly not for anything fragile—wine glasses and electronics, for instance.

The SeaSucker products belong in a different category, though. Clear your mind, take a deep breath, and let the SeaSucker website explain why:

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