In case you weren’t already 100% convinced by my own article that converting to Smartplug is a Do-It-Yourself project you can accomplish, check out the new videos from the SmartPlug folks. I’ve embedded just the first one…the overview. The rest are available on the SmartPlug site.

[As an aside, please notice how the video’s title page says “Introduction to the SmartPlug with TV’s Mike Miller.” Hold on! Could it be that somebody at SmartPlug is a fan of TV’s Frank?]

Oh, and of course there’s a press release to go with the new videos…

Seeing is believing and boaters can view just how simple it really is to switch to a new, safer shorepower system. SmartPlug Systems created two short installation videos, giving owners a better understanding of how to retrofit their current system with the revolutionary SmartPlug system.

The videos feature the 30 amp connector and inlet and can be found on www.smartplug.com on the Videos page, as well as on the site’s individual installation pages. One movie, www.smartplug.com/install_30a_plug.html, demonstrates how to retrofit the connector, while the other, www.smartplug.com/install_30a_inlet.html, shows how to adapt the inlet. Step-by-step written instructions with accompanying photos are also available on the installation section of the website.

Those who want to learn more about the SmartPlug system can watch www.smartplug.com/videos.html. A unique shorepower system, the SmartPlug is designed to replace the outdated standard in use today. It helps prevent loose connections and corrosion, the leading causes of marine fires and electrocution.

[It’s another MadMariner feature from a couple weeks back. —Tim]

I first heard about the SmartPlug back in June, and I’ll admit I was somewhat skeptical. Why would anyone bother "reinventing the wheel" when it comes to shorepower cable connector standards? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, right?

I have changed my mind. In fact, I have converted my boat to SmartPlug. I don’t anticipate I’ll have any trouble at any of the marinas or destinations I visit, despite the fact that my boat’s shorepower inlet is, for the moment, almost unique. How can I be so confident? Well, let me explain.

The manufacturer claims that "SmartPlug is a revolutionary shore power system designed to replace the outdated and problematic twist lock standard in use today. It’s intuitive to use and provides greater protection against loose connections and corrosion—the leading causes of shore power failure and fires."

After taking a close look at my existing shorepower cable and connections, and comparing them to what I saw when I visited the SmartPlug headquarters in Seattle, I was a convert. Especially when I saw several samples of charred melted twist-lock connectors…yikes!

I’m not on the SmartPlug payroll or anything, either; I was genuinely impressed. You don’t have to take my word for it, though: handle a SmartPlug at your local marine store, or track one down at your regional boat show, and you’ll see what I mean. This is one serious piece of engineering.

WHY BOTHER?

As I wrote when I first heard about this product, "I still think the SmartPlug folks have got one hell of an uphill battle ahead of them, trying to break into a market already saturated with a pre-installed standard."

Ken Smith, President of SmartPlug, acknowledges the challenge. However, it turns out that my understanding of SmartPlug’s current product offering was incomplete. During my visit, I learned that a boater could upgrade to SmartPlug on the boat side of the power cord, and keep the conventional twist-lock plug on the dockside end. As the website says, "Protect your boat NOW…even if your marina hasn’t yet upgraded!"

I didn’t get it before, and my suspicion is that a lot of potential customers also do not get this. They probably don’t appreciate that they can enjoy most of the benefits of the SmartPlug system even if the marina has not upgraded. Excessive heat aboard the boat could start a fire that might destroy the boat, while excessive heat at the dock’s shorepower pedestal, although plenty bad, isn’t nearly as likely to start a boat-destroying fire.

Shortly after my visit, I decided to upgrade the power connection aboard Two Lucky Fish, my C-Dory 22. I anticipate that I’ll enjoy the benefits SmartPlug claims, plus a couple of secondary benefits the marketing material doesn’t really emphasize: Ease of use for crewmembers, and ease of use for me in the dark.

With the old plug, I never felt comfortable asking other crewmembers to hook up the shorepower when we arrived at a destination, even our home slip. Those twist-lock connectors are a little tricky if you’re not familiar with them. I’ve had children, and even adults, give up and tell me they couldn’t figure it out. In the dark, it’s not uncommon to hear me cursing while I try to figure out which way to orient the twist-lock plug connecter.

In comparison, the SmartPlug is dead simple; it’s completely obvious how to plug it in, even in the dark. Also, it’s fairly intuitive to disconnect, even without somebody explaining that the socket lid locks into place on the plug, providing security in addition to the latches on either side of the plug body.

UPGRADING

Upgrading is easy, even if you’re not a boat electrician. There are no special tools required, other than a pair of wire strippers for 30-amp wire. Actually, I don’t possess such a wire stripper; I used a boxcutter, and that was fine.

I won’t describe every detail of the process; be sure to read the instructions. Obviously, disconnect your shorepower cord and turn everything off before you start! Once that’s done, the first step is to disconnect and remove your old twist-lock socket. Don’t panic, because if you have second thoughts, you can always reinstall it.

Test-fit the SmartPlug socket in the existing hole. Mine fit perfectly, but since my old inlet used three screws and the SmartPlug uses four, I had to drill new holes. No problem.

Secure the boat’s black, white, and green shorepower wires into the back of the SmartPlug inlet and tighten those color-coded screws. Then mount the socket into the existing hole, using the provided gasket to seal it up. You’ll have to purchase your own stainless #8-32 fasteners (bolts, nuts, and washers), and you can add polysulfide or silicone sealant if you feel it’s necessary, but I did not.

After you’ve got the socket installed on your boat, it’s time for the truly frightening, irreversible part of this operation. I have to admit that it was nerve-wracking taking a hacksaw to a perfectly good Marinco shorepower cable that retails for about $150.

Once you’ve cut the end off your current cable, you need to strip back 1 ½-inch of the exterior wire insulation (the thick yellow part) from the cable. Now it gets a little tricky. I recommend cleaning the first two feet of the outside of your old cable thoroughly before you start the next step; mine was kind of yucky. You need to force your cable into the SmartPlug plug housing and the rubber cord gasket.

This gasket fits quite tightly around the cord, so it will be necessary to use the clever plastic cone the SmartPlug folks have included in the kit. Add some dish soap as a lubricant, and "thread the needle." It will take some force, and some patience, but it does work. Once you’ve got it all the way through, push a little more through until about three inches of cable emerges out of the plug housing.

Now you need to strip the insulation from the three individual wires (which should be black, white, and green). The instructions say to strip ½-inch of insulation, but I was not happy with that. I ended up stripping about 5/8s of an inch back from the end, and it seemed fit together better.

See, you want the clear plastic "teeth" of the SmartPlug insert to engage with the thick yellow outer insulation of your shorepower cable. When I stripped a bit more insulation off the inner wires, more of the thick outer insulation was available for the plastic teeth to bite into. This is important because those teeth help hold the cable and the SmartPlug together.

At this point, you just work the housing down so it engages with the plug insert, and tighten the screws that hold it all together. Add the stick-on neoprene ring seal around the plug face, and you’re done. Just plug it in and turn on your shorepower breakers.

As with most DIY projects, you’ll encounter idiosyncrasies unique to your own situation. In my case, drilling four new holes in the boat and stripping a bit more insulation were the only aspects that didn’t go precisely "by the book," but you want to make sure you can roll back the conversion if you encounter some unforeseen obstacle. So wait until you’re certain the inlet can be installed before you chop the end of your current shorepower cable.

Good luck!

Time for another Navagear feature at MadMariner. This time, I explain why I’ve upgraded my shorepower cable to the new SmartPlug standard.

After this week’s $2-million, 3-vessel boat fire just across Lake Union from my boat, I’m feeling especially virtuous about my decision!

Boat Bits has an excellent guest post on electrical auxiliary power by sailor Merrick White of S/V Rising Star. Here’s an excerpt:

My recently installed electric motor would provide the occasional assist required and be quickly re-charged by my large solar panel.
[…]
I turned it on, powered up to 20amps (50 amps is max) and started the Honda 2000i generator. I plugged the generator into our shorepower receptacle and turned on the battery charger. We motored 33 miles into the ICW (intercoastal waterway) and to our first anchorage in Ingram’s Bayou AL.

Since that first day we covered 595 miles before stopping for hurricane season in Fort Myers FL. We sailed 352 miles and powered the rest.
[…]
During this first season our electric motor has performed flawlessly. We have met other cruisers along the way that are unable to say the same for their diesel engines.

Read more

This strays a little off-topic for Navagear, but it’s pretty dang cool. I still have hopes that fuel cell technology will make a big splash for sailboats and other displacement-type vessels with low horsepower-to-displacement ratios.

Anyway, check out this story from Science Daily:

Zero CO₂ is the world’s first-hydrogen powered yacht with a fully integrated laboratory to study pollution in the Mediterranean.

[Image courtesy of Université Joseph Fourier]

The objective of the Zero CO₂ project is to sail around the Mediterranean using a clean carbon-free auxiliary motor (gasoline powered motors are commonly used in yachts for all port manoeuvres). The yacht will be presented for the first time at the Paris Boat Show in December 2009.  A 12m craft built by the RM shipyard of La Rochelle, the yacht will be equipped with an electric motor driven by a hydrogen fuel cell, developed by CEA Liten of Grenoble.

Test pollution levels in the Mediterranean using a built-in laboratory

A scientific platform installed on the yacht by the University Joseph Fourier (UJF) and its technology transfer subsidiary, Floralis, will be used to collect scientific data on man-made pollution throughout the length of the 10 month trip. The yacht will travel around the Mediterranean coast as far as Turkey on a journey that will commence in March, 2010.

[Read more...]

Navagear often promotes products from manufacturers in our own backyard: the northwestern United States and western Canada. So we’re thrilled to see a Seattle-based manufacturer with an ambitious and innovative new shore power offering.

At the same time, though, I wonder what sort of an uphill battle the folks at SmartPlug are prepared for. It’s going be be difficult to carve out even a tiny chunk of market-share when every boat and every marina already has the conventional alternative installed.

The benefits would need to be overwhelming and incontrovertible.

Are they? You be the judge:

Anyway, on with the press release!
——————-

The harsh marine environment can cause problems with even the highest quality shorepower systems.  Shorepower failure is one of the leading causes of boat fires.  Regular maintenance of cords and outlets is needed to keep them in good condition, providing dependable electrical components.

When not in use, a plug should be stored in a dry area, free of moisture and chemical agents.  If stored outside, boaters should keep the plug end of the cord face down.  This helps prevent intrusion of moisture into the plug body and internal electrical components.  When unplugged, owners shouldn’t throw the plug end onto the dock or any other hard surface to avoid cracking and damage.

Electrical contacts must always be dry and clean.  Owners should check boatside and dockside plugs and receptacles weekly for scorching, discoloration, melted plastic and visible corrosion.  If any are spotted, cord use should be discontinued immediately to avoid fire or electrocution.

To increase protection from these dangers, SmartPlug Systems has designed a new and patented shorepower system.  Featuring advanced safety features, SmartPlug is currently available in a 30 amp plug and inlet with a 50 amp model in development.

When a plug is in use, it must be securely locked into place.  It’s also important to not apply undue strain or force on an electrical pin.

(more…)

Did you ever wish the boat in front of you had a set of brake lights? It may sound silly, but actually, I’ve had this experience several times.

So I wonder if this is a good idea or not. The trouble, as I see it, is that an intermittent amber light at the stern has no universally understood meaning. Or if it does, I’m not aware of it. Any thoughts from our talented readers?

On with the press release!

Waterways can be dangerous, especially when cruising around other boats that can suddenly decelerate without warning, possibly leading to a damaging collision. Creating a safer recreational environment, Powersport Innovations introduces the Safety Alert System for outboard motors. An amber LED light mounted on the outboard motor alerts other boaters that the craft is decelerating.
 
Helping to avoid injuries, costly repairs and downtime due to an accident, the patented Safety Alert System features a microprocessor-controlled G force sensor. As a boat decelerates, this module provides power to the LED to alert surrounding boaters to take timely corrective action.

“The Safety Alert System helps make boating safer and in the end more fun,” said Powersport Innovations CEO Paul Grzebielucha. “There’s no better cause for our company to be associated with than helping increase safety on the water.”

Completely water- and vibration-proof, the Safety Alert System is designed to withstand harsh marine conditions. With an extremely low voltage draw of only 170 milliamps, boaters won’t have to worry about battery drain. It comes with all necessary wiring.

The kit includes a high-intensity LED that mounts on the dash, lighting up simultaneously when the outboard motor LED is lit. Further increasing safety, this system doubles as a flashing distress signal, alerting others when boaters are in need of assistance. The Safety Alert System for outboard motors is also imperative when night time cruising or docking.

The Safety Alert System comes with a three-year unconditional replacement warranty. This patented system is available as an OEM or aftermarket retail product and has a suggested retail price of $238.95.

Bombardier Recreational Products, manufacturers of Johnson and Evinrude outboards, have concluded that the failed engine holder casting on my Suzuji-manufactured 90-horsepower 4-stroke EFI outboard motor is not their responsibility.

Oh yes, they “apologize for any inconvenience”, and “customer satisfaction is a top priority”, but the problem I experienced was the result of corrosion, and that’s not covered.

A disappointment, to be sure, but not a big surprise. They were able to provide a bit of background on the changes I noticed in the part that failed:

“Upon further inspection of this issue after reading your letter, the change in the casting was due to the elimination of a test port. Your pictures illustrate this change well, the noted change in the casting was due to the elimination of the machining for a test port for an oxygen sensor, which is no longer used. Otherwise the casting is the same.”

That makes sense, and it explains the change. The engine has over 800 hours on it, which is a lot for a three-year-old engine. The previous owner used the boat a lot, and I’ve put about 100 hours on it in the past eight months. So maybe this part was just going to fail at this point eventually, and mine failed early due to the large number of hours on the engine.

It will be interesting to see if other owners of these Suzuki-manufactured engines begin experiencing the same failure in large numbers when they’ve got 800 hours on their engines. Affected models probably include Johnson and Suzuki 90 HP, 115 HP, and 140 HP 4-stroke EFI engines manufactured between 2001 and at least 2005, the model year of my engine. But I don’t know when Suzuki modified the part, so it’s possible some newer engines are similarly at risk.

If you own one of these engines and you’re experiencing exhaust leakage into the engine enclosure, please contact me. You can identify this problem because of the soot that will gradually build up in the vicinity of the exhaust leak and, eventually, rough running and stalling that’s difficult to diagnose.

Never fear, there’s a happy ending for this Thanksgiving story: now that it’s fixed, my engine’s once again the smooth, reliable runner I’ve come to know and love.

Plus the boat motor’s workin’ again! [cue rimshot]

I tell ya, that joke just never gets old. Anyway, the fine folks over at Jacobsen’s Marine wrapped up their work early in October. Special thanks to Service Manager Tim and Acting Service Manager Willy; you guys are great.

I’m feeling unreasonably pleased with myself because my own diagnostic conclusion turned out to be correct: exhaust was leaking into the engine enclosure.

The cause, however, was not something simple like a worn-out hose or a gasket. Instead, (more…)

I’m having trouble with my Johnson.

Plus the boat engine ain’t workin’ right! [cue rimshot]

Bwa-ha-ha-ha! Oh man…I kill me sometimes. Anyhoo, here’s the deal: My 2005 Johnson 90 (4-stroke, EFI, Suzuki-manufactured) outboard starts fine, runs fine, and then stalls when I slow down to an idle after running several minutes. (more…)