Regular readers already know that I’ve got a 30-amp SmartPlug on my boat, and I continue to be very happy with it.

So I spoke with the guys from SmartPlug at the Seattle Boat Show the other day, hoping to see samples at the new 50-amp product.

Would you believe that they are waiting for one single part? Once they’ve got everything in-house, they can begin packaging and shipping 50-amp plugs and cord conversion kits. Like this:

Here’s the press release:

After much success and accolades for its 30 amp products, SmartPlug Systems now offers its unique product in 50 amps.  Designed for larger boats, the new Connector and Inlet incorporate the same revolutionary features as the original 30 amp version.

The SmartPlug’s straight-in, sleeved design enables the body of the plug to bear weight, instead of the electrical pins.  This keeps the points of electrical contact secure and makes sure the pins don’t work themselves loose.

Intuitive to use, owners simply push the plug straight in until the side levers click and then snap the locking cap down on top to finish the job.  The unique shape of the plug makes it easy to orient, since it can only be plugged in one way.  No twisting is required.

Featuring three weatherproof seals, the SmartPlug eliminates the possibility of water and moisture intrusion.  Employing two locking side levers and two points of contact on the locking cap, its Multi-Point Locking System ensures a rock solid connection at all times.  When the inlet is not in use, the cap can remain closed and serve as a weatherproof seal.

The SmartPlug is easy to install.  Owners remove the legacy twist-type round inlet from the vessel, connect the wiring to the SmartPlug inlet and reinstall using the same screw-hole footprint.  On the plug end, the old plug end needs to be cut off and new wires need to be attached to the new SmartPlug.

Utilizing only the finest materials available, SmartPlug incorporates marine-grade 316 stainless steel for its external metal parts and nickel-plated brass for its electrical pins.  All plastics used are UV- and heat-resistant Valox 553U resins made in the US.

Al Felker has this item at his blog. And let me just add that I’m shocked…SHOCKED…to see such distorted “sine-waves” from the inverter and generator he tested. OK, I’m not that shocked. Still, it’s disappointing.

In our search for improving our life aboard, I have discovered that charging our laptop computers can be a time consuming chore depending on your charging method.   During a recent trip to West Sound in Orcas Island, I discovered it takes longer to charge our laptops using our generator than when using shore power.  I did an experiment and tried charging using our (modified sine wave) inverter and found it takes yet even longer to charge our laptops!

I decided to find out what was causing these charge times discrepancies.  Upon our return from Orcas Island, I borrowed an oscilloscope from a fellow blogger, Steve Roberts.  The oscilloscope revealed a difference in the sine wave outputs from the three different sources of AC.

Shore Power = perfect sine wave

As can be seen in the photo, the shore power appears to be a perfect sine wave of 60 cycles per second (Hertz).  Now I tested the inverter, Xantrex XM 1800, (modified sine wave) on the oscilloscope.  Results below.

Read more

[A side note before we get to the press release: I used my new SmartPlug cordset on my little getaway last weekend, connecting it to the power outlet at the Kirkland public dock just as darkness was falling. WOW, that little blue LED “bug” on the boatside plug end is bright! I used it as a flashlight while I made the boatside connection. Very handy. —Tim]

The SmartPlug 30 Amp Inlet and Connector have passed all required testing for product safety certification by Intertek Testing Services and are now listed as ETL-certified products.  Intertek is the leading international provider of independent inspection, testing, and certification services.  The ETL Listed Mark is proof of a product’s compliance to meet US and Canadian safety standards.

A common misconception among manufacturers in the United States is that their choice for compliance testing is limited to the UL Listed Mark.  UL is only one of several Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratories (NRTL) which test to North American safety standards set by ANSI/UL, CSS and NFPA.  Like UL, Intertek is an OSHA (Occupational Safety & Health Administration) recognized NRTL and is accredited as a Testing Organization and Certification Body by the Standards Council of Canada.

And similar to the UL Mark, the ETL Listed Mark is recognized and accepted by manufacturers, retailers, distributors and local authorities.  SmartPlug Systems feels Intertek is the right choice for the testing of its products with its international recognition and global network of laboratories and resources.

The 30 Amp Inlet and Connector represent just the tip of the iceberg with SmartPlug Systems’ roll-out of power products.  The 30 Amp Dual Configuration Cordsets and a protective Weatherproof Cover, which fits securely over SmartPlug boatside connectors, were just released in September.  The line of 50 Amp power products will begin hitting the shelves early 2011.

The SmartPlug is a revolutionary new power system designed to replace the outdated and problematic twist-type connectors in use today.  It’s intuitive to use and provides greater protection against loose connections and corrosion, the leading causes of shore power failure and fires.  It’s not just that it’s a better safety product, but it’s also the only safety product in existence which combats the common problems of the 72-year-old, twist-type design.

SmartPlug Systems is poised for rapid growth with a strong dealer and distributor network in the US, Canada and US Virgin Islands.  Customers can refer to the company’s website for a complete updated listing.

I’ve got plenty to write about, what with the NMEA conference and all the new products I’ve seen over the past two days. But no time for writing today! I’m heading back to the conference. In the meantime, please enjoy this press release. —Tim

Lithium batteries are the technology of choice when it comes to providing more energy from smaller, lighter battery banks.  Now the leader in electric outboards, Torqeedo, sets new standards with its innovative Power 26-104 lithium manganese battery.

Delivering 2,685 watt-hours from a weight of only 44 lbs., the new Power 26-104 features four times the energy per pound of battery weight compared to conventional lead-gel or AGM batteries.  It outperforms other lithium batteries on the market.

The integrated battery management system (BMS) is in a class of its own.  In addition to typical functions of a BMS, like cell balancing, the new Torqeedo BMS protects the battery against overcharge, overvoltage, overheating, deep discharge, wrong polarity and other potential causes of damage or danger.

Torqeedo Power 26-104 is uncompromisingly designed for marine use.  It is waterproof to IP 67 standards, so it can be completely submersed at 3′ for 30 minutes and still function properly.  It will also shut itself down if submersed longer to avoid dangerous galvanic effects.  Superior safety aspects of the new battery encompass proven and secure battery chemistry, advanced safety electronics, as well as unique hardware protection of each individual battery-cell.

Torqeedo’s new Power 26-104 lithium battery retails for $2,499.  When weighed against the capacity of the battery, this represents a price of $0.93 per watt-hour, making it an extremely economical offer when compared to other lithium batteries on the market.

In case you weren’t already 100% convinced by my own article that converting to Smartplug is a Do-It-Yourself project you can accomplish, check out the new videos from the SmartPlug folks. I’ve embedded just the first one…the overview. The rest are available on the SmartPlug site.

[As an aside, please notice how the video’s title page says “Introduction to the SmartPlug with TV’s Mike Miller.” Hold on! Could it be that somebody at SmartPlug is a fan of TV’s Frank?]

Oh, and of course there’s a press release to go with the new videos…

Seeing is believing and boaters can view just how simple it really is to switch to a new, safer shorepower system. SmartPlug Systems created two short installation videos, giving owners a better understanding of how to retrofit their current system with the revolutionary SmartPlug system.

The videos feature the 30 amp connector and inlet and can be found on www.smartplug.com on the Videos page, as well as on the site’s individual installation pages. One movie, www.smartplug.com/install_30a_plug.html, demonstrates how to retrofit the connector, while the other, www.smartplug.com/install_30a_inlet.html, shows how to adapt the inlet. Step-by-step written instructions with accompanying photos are also available on the installation section of the website.

Those who want to learn more about the SmartPlug system can watch www.smartplug.com/videos.html. A unique shorepower system, the SmartPlug is designed to replace the outdated standard in use today. It helps prevent loose connections and corrosion, the leading causes of marine fires and electrocution.

[It’s another MadMariner feature from a couple weeks back. —Tim]

I first heard about the SmartPlug back in June, and I’ll admit I was somewhat skeptical. Why would anyone bother "reinventing the wheel" when it comes to shorepower cable connector standards? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, right?

I have changed my mind. In fact, I have converted my boat to SmartPlug. I don’t anticipate I’ll have any trouble at any of the marinas or destinations I visit, despite the fact that my boat’s shorepower inlet is, for the moment, almost unique. How can I be so confident? Well, let me explain.

The manufacturer claims that "SmartPlug is a revolutionary shore power system designed to replace the outdated and problematic twist lock standard in use today. It’s intuitive to use and provides greater protection against loose connections and corrosion—the leading causes of shore power failure and fires."

After taking a close look at my existing shorepower cable and connections, and comparing them to what I saw when I visited the SmartPlug headquarters in Seattle, I was a convert. Especially when I saw several samples of charred melted twist-lock connectors…yikes!

I’m not on the SmartPlug payroll or anything, either; I was genuinely impressed. You don’t have to take my word for it, though: handle a SmartPlug at your local marine store, or track one down at your regional boat show, and you’ll see what I mean. This is one serious piece of engineering.

WHY BOTHER?

As I wrote when I first heard about this product, "I still think the SmartPlug folks have got one hell of an uphill battle ahead of them, trying to break into a market already saturated with a pre-installed standard."

Ken Smith, President of SmartPlug, acknowledges the challenge. However, it turns out that my understanding of SmartPlug’s current product offering was incomplete. During my visit, I learned that a boater could upgrade to SmartPlug on the boat side of the power cord, and keep the conventional twist-lock plug on the dockside end. As the website says, "Protect your boat NOW…even if your marina hasn’t yet upgraded!"

I didn’t get it before, and my suspicion is that a lot of potential customers also do not get this. They probably don’t appreciate that they can enjoy most of the benefits of the SmartPlug system even if the marina has not upgraded. Excessive heat aboard the boat could start a fire that might destroy the boat, while excessive heat at the dock’s shorepower pedestal, although plenty bad, isn’t nearly as likely to start a boat-destroying fire.

Shortly after my visit, I decided to upgrade the power connection aboard Two Lucky Fish, my C-Dory 22. I anticipate that I’ll enjoy the benefits SmartPlug claims, plus a couple of secondary benefits the marketing material doesn’t really emphasize: Ease of use for crewmembers, and ease of use for me in the dark.

With the old plug, I never felt comfortable asking other crewmembers to hook up the shorepower when we arrived at a destination, even our home slip. Those twist-lock connectors are a little tricky if you’re not familiar with them. I’ve had children, and even adults, give up and tell me they couldn’t figure it out. In the dark, it’s not uncommon to hear me cursing while I try to figure out which way to orient the twist-lock plug connecter.

In comparison, the SmartPlug is dead simple; it’s completely obvious how to plug it in, even in the dark. Also, it’s fairly intuitive to disconnect, even without somebody explaining that the socket lid locks into place on the plug, providing security in addition to the latches on either side of the plug body.

UPGRADING

Upgrading is easy, even if you’re not a boat electrician. There are no special tools required, other than a pair of wire strippers for 30-amp wire. Actually, I don’t possess such a wire stripper; I used a boxcutter, and that was fine.

I won’t describe every detail of the process; be sure to read the instructions. Obviously, disconnect your shorepower cord and turn everything off before you start! Once that’s done, the first step is to disconnect and remove your old twist-lock socket. Don’t panic, because if you have second thoughts, you can always reinstall it.

Test-fit the SmartPlug socket in the existing hole. Mine fit perfectly, but since my old inlet used three screws and the SmartPlug uses four, I had to drill new holes. No problem.

Secure the boat’s black, white, and green shorepower wires into the back of the SmartPlug inlet and tighten those color-coded screws. Then mount the socket into the existing hole, using the provided gasket to seal it up. You’ll have to purchase your own stainless #8-32 fasteners (bolts, nuts, and washers), and you can add polysulfide or silicone sealant if you feel it’s necessary, but I did not.

After you’ve got the socket installed on your boat, it’s time for the truly frightening, irreversible part of this operation. I have to admit that it was nerve-wracking taking a hacksaw to a perfectly good Marinco shorepower cable that retails for about $150.

Once you’ve cut the end off your current cable, you need to strip back 1 ½-inch of the exterior wire insulation (the thick yellow part) from the cable. Now it gets a little tricky. I recommend cleaning the first two feet of the outside of your old cable thoroughly before you start the next step; mine was kind of yucky. You need to force your cable into the SmartPlug plug housing and the rubber cord gasket.

This gasket fits quite tightly around the cord, so it will be necessary to use the clever plastic cone the SmartPlug folks have included in the kit. Add some dish soap as a lubricant, and "thread the needle." It will take some force, and some patience, but it does work. Once you’ve got it all the way through, push a little more through until about three inches of cable emerges out of the plug housing.

Now you need to strip the insulation from the three individual wires (which should be black, white, and green). The instructions say to strip ½-inch of insulation, but I was not happy with that. I ended up stripping about 5/8s of an inch back from the end, and it seemed fit together better.

e="margin: 0px 0px 0px 5px; display: inline" title="At this point, you just work the housing down so it engages with the plug insert, and tighten the screws that hold it all together.: TIM FLANAGAN" alt="At this point, you just work the housing down so it engages with the plug insert, and tighten the screws that hold it all together.: TIM FLANAGAN" align="right" src="http://madmariner.com/files/images/NAVAGEAR_SMARTPLUG_121009_OM-P5.jpg" width="250" height="200" />See, you want the clear plastic "teeth" of the SmartPlug insert to engage with the thick yellow outer insulation of your shorepower cable. When I stripped a bit more insulation off the inner wires, more of the thick outer insulation was available for the plastic teeth to bite into. This is important because those teeth help hold the cable and the SmartPlug together.

At this point, you just work the housing down so it engages with the plug insert, and tighten the screws that hold it all together. Add the stick-on neoprene ring seal around the plug face, and you’re done. Just plug it in and turn on your shorepower breakers.

As with most DIY projects, you’ll encounter idiosyncrasies unique to your own situation. In my case, drilling four new holes in the boat and stripping a bit more insulation were the only aspects that didn’t go precisely "by the book," but you want to make sure you can roll back the conversion if you encounter some unforeseen obstacle. So wait until you’re certain the inlet can be installed before you chop the end of your current shorepower cable.

Good luck!

Time for another Navagear feature at MadMariner. This time, I explain why I’ve upgraded my shorepower cable to the new SmartPlug standard.

After this week’s $2-million, 3-vessel boat fire just across Lake Union from my boat, I’m feeling especially virtuous about my decision!

Boat Bits has an excellent guest post on electrical auxiliary power by sailor Merrick White of S/V Rising Star. Here’s an excerpt:

My recently installed electric motor would provide the occasional assist required and be quickly re-charged by my large solar panel.
[…]
I turned it on, powered up to 20amps (50 amps is max) and started the Honda 2000i generator. I plugged the generator into our shorepower receptacle and turned on the battery charger. We motored 33 miles into the ICW (intercoastal waterway) and to our first anchorage in Ingram’s Bayou AL.

Since that first day we covered 595 miles before stopping for hurricane season in Fort Myers FL. We sailed 352 miles and powered the rest.
[…]
During this first season our electric motor has performed flawlessly. We have met other cruisers along the way that are unable to say the same for their diesel engines.

Read more

This strays a little off-topic for Navagear, but it’s pretty dang cool. I still have hopes that fuel cell technology will make a big splash for sailboats and other displacement-type vessels with low horsepower-to-displacement ratios.

Anyway, check out this story from Science Daily:

Zero CO₂ is the world’s first-hydrogen powered yacht with a fully integrated laboratory to study pollution in the Mediterranean.

[Image courtesy of Université Joseph Fourier]

The objective of the Zero CO₂ project is to sail around the Mediterranean using a clean carbon-free auxiliary motor (gasoline powered motors are commonly used in yachts for all port manoeuvres). The yacht will be presented for the first time at the Paris Boat Show in December 2009.  A 12m craft built by the RM shipyard of La Rochelle, the yacht will be equipped with an electric motor driven by a hydrogen fuel cell, developed by CEA Liten of Grenoble.

Test pollution levels in the Mediterranean using a built-in laboratory

A scientific platform installed on the yacht by the University Joseph Fourier (UJF) and its technology transfer subsidiary, Floralis, will be used to collect scientific data on man-made pollution throughout the length of the 10 month trip. The yacht will travel around the Mediterranean coast as far as Turkey on a journey that will commence in March, 2010.

[Read more...]

Navagear often promotes products from manufacturers in our own backyard: the northwestern United States and western Canada. So we’re thrilled to see a Seattle-based manufacturer with an ambitious and innovative new shore power offering.

At the same time, though, I wonder what sort of an uphill battle the folks at SmartPlug are prepared for. It’s going be be difficult to carve out even a tiny chunk of market-share when every boat and every marina already has the conventional alternative installed.

The benefits would need to be overwhelming and incontrovertible.

Are they? You be the judge:

Anyway, on with the press release!
——————-

The harsh marine environment can cause problems with even the highest quality shorepower systems.  Shorepower failure is one of the leading causes of boat fires.  Regular maintenance of cords and outlets is needed to keep them in good condition, providing dependable electrical components.

When not in use, a plug should be stored in a dry area, free of moisture and chemical agents.  If stored outside, boaters should keep the plug end of the cord face down.  This helps prevent intrusion of moisture into the plug body and internal electrical components.  When unplugged, owners shouldn’t throw the plug end onto the dock or any other hard surface to avoid cracking and damage.

Electrical contacts must always be dry and clean.  Owners should check boatside and dockside plugs and receptacles weekly for scorching, discoloration, melted plastic and visible corrosion.  If any are spotted, cord use should be discontinued immediately to avoid fire or electrocution.

To increase protection from these dangers, SmartPlug Systems has designed a new and patented shorepower system.  Featuring advanced safety features, SmartPlug is currently available in a 30 amp plug and inlet with a 50 amp model in development.

When a plug is in use, it must be securely locked into place.  It’s also important to not apply undue strain or force on an electrical pin.

SmartPlug employs revolutionary side locks to enable users to feel and hear the positive connection.  This locking system also ensures any pressure or force is absorbed by the assembly’s body and not the electrical pins.  Its straight electrical pins slide straight into the connector without any twisting, providing a more stable, safe connection.

To keep pins free from corrosion, the boatside cap or cover must be closed when not in use.  Further enhancing the moisture resistance of pins and electrical contacts, owners can also coat them with dielectric grease.

With a triple seal waterproof connection, including a compressed front seal, rear seal and flanged cord seal, SmartPlug’s internal electrical components are protected against corrosion.  To avoid overheating, it incorporates a trip thermostat that turns off the power around 200˚F.

Most importantly, a plug should never be submerged under water.  If it’s accidentally dropped into the water, power should be shut off immediately before it’s retrieved.  If dropped in saltwater, the plug must be rinsed with freshwater.  Before rinsing plug, the cord should be disconnected from any power source.  Then, users should allow a few days for the plug to thoroughly dry before reusing.

Most boaters depend on shorepower systems to gain access to electricity.  However, despite the best maintained system, the possibility of burning, electrical arcing and power surges still exist.  The innovative SmartPlug, paired with proper shorepower maintenance, provides protection for boats and marinas, ensuring boating remains safe and fun.