Why would you make your lazy jacks difficult? Brion Toss offers a better approach at Three Sheets Northwest:

There’s a Gary Larson cartoon with the caption “Inconvenience store,” in which all of a shop’s merchandise is crowded onto a tiny shelf, far above the heads of the customers.

Lazyjacks can be like that, a system whose entire purpose is to make your life easier, but which can make it so hard that you are actually better off without it.

Okay, that’s a bit extreme, since even a badly designed lazyjack system is — usually — better than nothing. But why settle for less than actual convenience? Why bring that shelf only a little ways down the wall, when a little more thought and planning can put it at eye level?

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Hey, I learned a new knot today! That’s fairly unusual for me.

I don’t claim to know every knot in the book, but I’m familiar with all of the most commonly used ones, plus a few I find useful that aren’t so commonly used, such as the Alpine Butterfly. The Alpine Butterfly knot is the most compact loop-in-the-middle-of-a-line knot with “collars” (allowing the knot to be untied after it’s been loaded) that I know. But that will have to wait for another day.

Today, we’re going to learn about the Spar Hitch, said to be more secure than the Clove Hitch, my current go-to knot for fenders and the like.

Captn Mike has this how-to on his blog:

The Spar Hitch is a great knot for tying fenders to a lifeline.  It is very secure and will hold around small and slick objects.  The load can be at different angles.  The Spar Hitch is also know as Ground Line Hitch, Picket Line Hitch and is the same basic construction as the Sack Knot.  The knot dates back to the days of the Calvary and the horses needed to be tied to a line at night and it was also used to tie the neck of a sack closed.

The Spar Hitch can be tied right or left handed or “slippery.”  The Spar Hitch looks similar to a Clove Hitch but holds much better.

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Trust Bob at BoatBits to find a splicing fid that works better and costs less than the widely available alternatives!

Since the new rig on "So It Goes" uses Dynex Dux for the standing rigging there is no shortage of splicing going on these days…

Of course, if you are going to be doing a lot of splicing, having the right fid is a big part of the mix and right now the fids we are using are medical surplus forceps. Forceps have a lot of advantages in that they are built to a much higher quality than most of the stuff being passed off as fids. They are also stainless (you know the sort that actually does not rust) steel and smooth as a baby’s bottom. Throw in the fact that they are cheap makes them even better!

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This boat arrived as I was wandering the Seattle Boat Show floor yesterday. I managed to avoid being crushed by any forklifts trucks, so that’s nice. Anyway, there’s been a bit of buzz about the new Cutwater line, from Fluid Motion (the same folks who manufacture the Ranger tugs). I’m very interested in learning more about this boat.

My pictures leave a lot to be desired; the full exhibition-hall lighting was not turned on yesterday, and the flash didn’t really seem to improve things much. Still, I know some readers will find these photos interesting:

I’m no naval architect: What’s the purpose of this step in the hull, which occurs about 2/5 of the way back from the bow? I’ll try to remember to ask the folks from Cutwater!

UPDATE! I found some information on this hull feature at http://www.cutwaterboats.com/hull_design:

A radical departure from conventional deep-V hull geometry, the revolutionary new Cutwater Hull design incorporates a number of features that together deliver a smooth ride, straight tracking, agile, responsive performance, and maximum fuel economy. With all these advantages, each Cutwater model offers the range to expand everyoneís cruise horizons while providing exceptional comfort underway.

1. Foremost among these features is the Keel Stepped Hull bottom with tapered intake tunnels to distribute an uninterrupted flow of air evenly across specifically designated segments of the running surface, while vectoring air away from the propeller.

2.  A keel pad runs the full length of the bottom to concentrate lift and adds directional stability. The entire tunnel-step-keel pad configuration employs a consistent distribution of air along the bottom to reduce drag for a measurable improvement in hull speed and fuel efficiency.

3.  A substantial skeg keel extends along the aftmost third of the hull, to improve straight-line tracking for efficient course-keeping, and to resist rolling for greater ride comfort. Additionally, this keel protects the propeller and running gear against damage from submerged hazards.

4. Along either side of the keel where it meets the bottom is a rounded shoulder where the machinery compartment has been expanded to allow positioning the engine low in the hull. This in turn lowers the boatís center of gravity for greater stability, and allows lowering the main deck structure to provide greater interior headroom while preserving the boatís attractive exterior profile.

5. Well forward, the raked stem curves downward near the waterline to a slender, near-vertical forefoot that cuts oncoming waves to ensure a smooth ride. This nuance also extends the waterline to improve fuel efficiency, and allows fuller sections throughout the forward hull sections for greater useable interior space. Together, these refinements enable the Cutwater hull to deliver an ultra-smooth ride and superior performance, plus an extra measure of comfort and convenience, adding up to unexcelled cruising enjoyment.

Bob at Boat Bits has this item, partially a response to a recent Navagear post:

I’d be dishonest if I were to say I don’t like Wichard products, but here in the US of A it is somewhat pricier than it could be and often no better than lesser priced competitors. On the other hand, when Wichard comes out with a new product I often take note as more often than not they come up with solid ideas…

Wichard’s new MX shackle incorporates a dumb sheave into the mix and at first glance it certainly is a winner as a bombproof means of getting a little extra purchase into a main halyard or running backstay in a less is more sort of thing… Kinda cool, huh?

Well, actually when you take a look at the pricing, the kind of cool sort of pales real quick when confronted with its price point of $80 for 10mm(3/8") line… Fact is a simple shackle and a real block (as opposed to a dumb sheave with its much higher friction) would be cheaper…
So what would Mr Cheapseats do?

or…

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This is pretty clever! Sometimes, you need a bit of purchase for a line you don’t adjust often, and sometimes you would prefer not to incur the weight or maintenance penalties a block demands.

If only somebody were to manufacture a fitting with a really smooth dished surface of moderate radius that smooth synthetic line could slide over…

Hey, they did it!

Obviously, this is not an all-purpose block replacement. Far from it. But once in a while, this might be just the right fitting.

Let’s see what Wichard says about it:

The MX is a High Resistance halyard shackle fully forged in 17/4 PH stainless steel to take on the high loads. MX has been specifically designed for static load operations and can be used to replace the terminals on flying sail furlers (i.e halyard block) or as a 2:1 purchase for your mainsail.

Outstanding strength/weight ratio:
Fully forged in High Resistance stainless steel, the MX offers one of the best strength/weight ratios on the market. Compared to standard blocks and for the same line diameter, the MX offers much higher working and breaking loads as well as optimised dimensions and weight.

A unique design:
Thanks to its unique design, the MX can excellently distribute the stresses. Its particular shape enables the MX to perfectly position the line to avoid undue and excessive wear on the line.

Easy to install:

The MX requires no specific lashing knowledge. Its installation is as easy as installing a shackle, thanks to its Wichard self-locking pin.

Reliable and maintenance free:

The MX does not include any mechanical parts (i.e sheave) which can potentially break. Moreover, it does not require any particular maintenance.

APPLICATIONS

As terminal for flying sail furlers:
The MX can effectively replace the terminal of your flying sail furlers, especially the halyard block, by providing an outstanding strength/weight ratio. When luff tension is needed, it can be used:

• to replace the halyard block on top swivel
• to replace the lower terminal on spool (snap shackle etc.)

As a halyard shackle for mainsail halyards (2:1 purchase):

The MX has been specifically designed to adapt itself to the heads of most mainsails. Thus it can be used in place of a 2:1 purchase on a mainsail halyard making it easier to tension the halyard and hoist the mainsail.

Bob at BoatBits has this item today, which reminds me of a Navagear item from a couple years ago:

Some time back I mentioned various ways to deal with boom brakes and how a simple figure eight descender/belay device works just fine… Over at Sail-World they have a great article showing you how to do it.
I’ll add that instead of rigging it as they describe with one end of the sheet dead ended to a chainplate it is better to have both tails of the sheet come back to the cockpit so you can put equal pressure on the system and gain a lot in the way of control at the cost of an extra block and a couple of shackles. We’ve done it both ways and the twin tail system works a whole lot better!

On my little boat, I don’t usually worry much about chafe. But during a minor blow during which I put my 6-kg Rocna anchor to the test, I was a bit surprised to see that my anchor line had chafed a bit more than I would expect for a simple overnight stay, at the bow roller. The anchor held fine, but it became obvious that I would need some sort of chafe protection for the rode, or else I would have to switch to all chain.

So I was pleased to learn recently about Fjord’s Chafe-Pro product line, which seems to enjoy a good reputation, judging from the fact that it’s used by the US Navy, Coast Guard, Army, Military Sealift Command, NOAA, and MARAD!

Chafe-Pro is designed to be a simple, cost-effective means for preventing chafe abrasion to synthetic lines such as nylon, Kevlar, Spectra, HMW-PE, and other polyethylene and polyester lines. Commercial Grade Chafe-Pro is made from a rugged, highly abrasion-resistant nylon, and it is intended for use on yachts, tug boats, and ships; they also offer Yacht Grade models that are suitable for use on small craft.

FJORD developed Chafe-Pro to be installed or removed anywhere along a line in a matter of seconds, requiring no lashings or lacings to secure it to lines. All models are downward compatible relative to line sizes, giving boaters a lot of flexibility; buy what you need for your largest line, and use it on whatever line happens to need protection.

So hold on: How does this all work? I poked around on the website to find the instructions:

1. If possible, lay the Chafe-Pro unit and line on a flat surface.
2. Start at the edge and place line on the Velcro “hooks” in the desired protected area. Once hooked, begin rolling the line and Chafe-Pro together until the unit is snugly rolled up.
3. Lock the Chafe-Pro unit by interlocking the Velcro edge units.
4. To move the position on the line, simply remove the Chafe-Pro, adjust to the desired location and secure.

So it stays put on the line because the Velcro “hooks” grab the fibers of the rope being protected. That’s pretty clever!

I don’t have any direct experience with Chafe-Pro, so I’m interested in feedback from other boaters: What do you use for chafe protection?

RLW over at BoatBits always has something interesting to say, and today is no exception. The fact that he’s recommending another one of my neighbors makes it noteworthy.

See, Ed Louchard at ZephyrWerks in Port Townsend fabricates delrin sheaves with bronze bushings, in pretty much any size you need.

Sounds expensive, doesn’t it?

Let’s see what BoatBits has to say in this post, entitled “Silly pricing on boat stuff":

So what should a really good sheave cost? Well take a look at Zephyrwerks who makes really excellent sheaves on a semi-custom basis. They use top quality materials and their workmanship is first rate… A single sheave will run you $38. If you buy more the cost comes down…

So why does the discount marine store sell cheap injected plastic crap with sharp edges for $79? Well, just maybe, it is because we as boat folk are stupid and confuse high price with quality or just don’t know better… Either way it is in our own best interest to give a little more thought to the stuff we install in our boats and the prices we pay.

So next time you need to replace sheaves, see if ZephyrWerks has what you need, eh?

With apologies to They Might Be Giants, and in appreciation of their 1990 song “Particle Man“:

Aluminum man, aluminum man;
Aluminum man meets stainless man.
They have a fight, stainless wins;
Stainless man…

If you don’t know the song, that probably doesn’t mean much. But I was motivated to rewrite the lyrics to that song by today’s post over at Capt’n Pauley’s Virtual Boatyard:

An aluminum mast step coupled with an aluminum mast sounds like a good idea and it was. That is, until a PO (previous owner) decided to add a stainless steel mast base organizer under the aluminum mast step casting.

A mast base organizer is a piece of stainless steel with four ears, one on each side of the rectangular center. The ears are turned up at an angle and have holes spaced in them. The holes are for attaching turning blocks for the various lines coming off the mast. The turning blocks then aim the lines at their respective winches or cleats.

While they are handy things to have, the combination of aluminum castings, stainless steel and saltwater is not a good combination. The less noble metal, in this case the cast aluminum mast base, corrodes. And this one had done so. My first inkling of trouble was the fact that the fasteners were locked in corrosion and had to be cut away.

You can see the remains of the corroded mast base, the organizer, and some progress toward a solution in this image:

Definitely keep reading! The finished product, retaining the aluminum mast AND the stainless steel organizer, but without any metal-to-metal contact between the two, is a miracle of do-it-yourselfer ingenuity: