This looks handy. On my boat, the available spaces are so unique that I’d probably build my own custom pockets to fit just right. But on a lot of boats, something like this might work fine, look good, and not require the four hours I would have to spend building it!

Creating additional storage space aboard just got simpler.  Accon Marine’s Quick Store System protects small items while onboard by simply fastening to previously installed drink holders.

These convenient pouches are constructed from durable, breathable and water-repellent, vinyl-coated polyester mesh fabric.  Incorporating antimicrobial properties, mold and mildew growth aren’t a concern.

The lightweight Quick Store System also features Sunbrella® acrylic binding and UV-resistant thread, enabling long-term usage.  Low-maintenance, the pouches are easy to clean and dry quickly.

Designed in neutral colors, they easily blend into the décor.  Single, double and triple pocket styles are available.

The system employs hook and loop fasteners to attach to Accon’s stainless steel drink holders, helping boaters add and move storage to where they need it.  The drink holders install with two #10 screws and can be removed in a moment.

Prices for Accon Marine’s Quick Store System start at $25.53.

Lots of my fellow C-Dory owners have expressed dissatisfaction with the factory-installed hatches covering the cockpit lazarettes. The trouble is that the stock hatches are not designed for horizontal installation. They collect water in the gap between the hatch and its frame; when you open them, the water spills INTO the locker!

So the clever C-Brats have identified a replacement that fits into the existing hole and works much better. I got mine this week, and decided to tackle the replacement project now, while the boat is in my driveway.

Step 1: Remove screws.

Step 2: Gently separate hatch frame with plastic putty knife/scraper/spatula.

Step 3: Gently pry the entire hatch/frame assembly up off the deck.

Step 4: Assess the damage. Look at the screws you removed for signs of rust, and examine the (sealed) balsa-core for signs of rot.

Decide how you want to address any issues you uncover. In my case, a bit more exploration reveals that the balsa core behind the stained sealant in the image below is still intact, though moist. At this point, it should be easy to contain this problem by allowing it to dry out thoroughly, since I won’t be reusing this hole for the new hatch anyway.

Step 5: Remove as much of the old adhesive/sealant as you can using an appropriate tool. I found a metal paint scraper worked extremely well. The goal is to remove as much of it as you can without gouging the gelcoat.

Once you get the feel for it, you might be able to remove large sections and leave only a thin layer or caulking on the fiberglass.

Start working near the opening, where mistakes will be covered with new adhesive sealant. As you gain confidence, come back and work nearer the finish edge where mistakes might be visible later.

Step 6: Use solvent to remove the last traces of old caulking. I used DeBond’s Marine Formula, with a blue 3M Scotch-Brite non-scratch scour pad. Warning: DeBond will cause the blue dye in the Scotch-Brite pad to be released. No big deal, and it’s actually somewhat helpful because the blue dye sticks to the spots where caulking still remains, but wipes off clean gelcoat.

Step 7: Test-fit the new hatch, decide what sort of fasteners to use. I’m going to through-bolt mine; I dislike coarse-threaded screws driven into cored fiberglass. I want any water that gets in through the top to have a way out through the bottom.

Once you’ve decided on fasteners, go shopping.

Coming up in Part 2: Selecting an appropriate adhesive/sealant, using denatured alcohol to prep the surface, and bedding the new hatches properly.

Take a look at the Rhino Grip. I received a set of these today from Harry Patz of the TarpClipStore.com, which is distributing them.

Very handy, and they appear to be quite robust. I especially like the fact that they have both an eye and a simple hook. Sometimes you want an eye, for security. Sometimes you want a hook, for convenience.

They’re made of fiberglass-filled nylon, and you can do a lot BESIDES securing those ubiquitous blue tarps we seem to love so much.

But let’s talk about using them specifically with blue tarps for a moment. I took a series of photographs this evening, after I got home from today’s “live blogging” session at the Seattle Boat Show.

See what’s so clever? The bolt is removable, and sized just perfectly to fit into the grommets on our precious blue tarps. But as anyone knows, those grommets sometimes fail. The Rhino Grip clip allows you to distribute the load to both the grommet and the fabric itself:

(more…)

What if there were a heavy-duty, three-person rowing inflatable that weighed less than 15 pounds? That packed into a stuff-sack 25.5″ × 10″ × 12″? That was made in Canada, not overseas, by a company with over 30 years of experience making small, portable boats? That was price-competitive with heavier inflatables of comparable quality?

I don’t know about you, but if I ever ran across such an item, I’d want to learn more! Which is why the highlight of my visit to the Seattle Boat Show today was, without question, the Feathercraft BayLee. Wow!

[This is actually the lightweight two-person model, which weighs less than ten pounds.]

These aren’t “toy” boats. Feathercraft has been a leader in skin-on-frame collapsible expedition kayaks for a long time. This company enjoys a reputation for producing extremely high-quality products at its plant in Vancouver, BC.

This reputation is very important because once you see this boat, your first impression is likely to be “It’s gotta be a gimmick”. The BayLee boats are so lightweight, and consciously or not we often equate lightweight with cheap, poorly made, insubstantial, and inadequate. “A tender-quality craft in pool-toy weight?,” I seem to hear you saying. “Can’t be done.”

(more…)

Propane cylinders fail occasionally, usually at the valves and fittings. Propane gas is heavier than air, and it can collect and settle into any open-topped container. Lockers, cabins, engine compartments, and boat hulls can contain “pools” of propane, just waiting for a spark.

So pools of loose propane sitting in the boat…that’s bad, see? I just wanted to make sure that was clear!

Storing propane cylinders properly anywhere, but especially aboard a boat, means providing overboard venting. If a cylinder fails, we want the gas to end up outside the hull.

If, like me, you’ve decided to refill your disposable 16-ounce propane cylinders, you want to make sure you don’t just chuck ‘em into a locker someplace for storage. They need to be in a locker that vents overboard. This is not optional.

If you don’t have a locker like that, you might make one. Navagear reader Bob Heselberg was kind enough to send a photo of his own propane cylinder storage solution. In his own words…

One piece of 4 inch plastic pipe with couple of hose clamps and a blocker at the bottom becomes a propane storage locker.  Holes drilled at certain spots provide vents if the 16oz containers leak. Make it as long as how many containers you want to stow. 

Bob H

Thanks, Bob! I’d add that the vent holes ought to be oriented on the outboard side. Even better, they would be connected to a hose to act as a “downspout”, containing the gas until it is below (and outside, of course) the gunnel.

Even more thorough would be to include a cap one the top of the “locker”, to ensure that fast-escaping gas was all directed down through the vent and overboard. Otherwise, a portion of it could “spill” out through the top, and might collect in the cockpit or hull.

I’m interested in hearing about other creative, inexpensive propane storage solutions. Send ‘em my way!

I often use a big plastic Rubbermaid bin to transport stuff to and from the boat. It holds a lot, fits in a seat of the car, fits in the dock cart, and can be moved around the boat without damaging anything.

The only trouble is that smaller stuff gets lost in the bottom of the bin. Until now!
When I saw these PacEasy Bin-Buddies at the Fremont Solstice Fair, I knew I could find a use for them.

They’re available in sizes that fit all the popular styles from the major manufacturers. With most models, you can still use the lid, too. Handy!

It’s a little bit ironic that a typical Bin Buddy actually costs more than the bin itself, but that’s just the way it’s got to be. As PacEasy points out, “It’s a simple matter of materials and labor costs. Sewn products require more materials and more labor to create the finished product than injection molded plastic storage bins.” Fair enough!